The Philosopher's Stone

What Do You See?

2012-03-05T05:00:00.000-05:00

What do you see when you look at this startling brooch by Ray Lipovsky and Eve Llyndorah?

"Birth of a Butterfly" on www.facerejewelryart.com.

"Brooch" is as restful as the other one is full of activity. It is by the same artists.

"Brooch" on www.facerejewelryart.com.

What Would You Do- 2nd Lenten Friday

2012-03-02T05:00:00.000-05:00

Verdura hinged cuffs in mammoth ivory and black jade- siiiiigh

Doctrinally, for Anglicans, Sundays are not part of Lent because every Sunday is a celebration of the Resurrection. Historically, it makes practical sense- during Lent, there was a lot of self-denial during the week.  There had to be a day to eat normally and replenish.

So now, when few of us practice exhausting self denial, would you relax your Lenten discipline on Sunday?  If it's a resurrection of a New Year's Resolution, then perhaps it makes sense to do so. But if you "fast" to be closer to the Lord, breaking your "fast" on Sunday could be counterproductive.  The beauty of these questions is that the right answer depends on you- not someone else's opinion of what is right for you!

I daydream about what sparkles, unworn, in my jewelry box. I think the most about the items I wear the least.  (That does not make any sense...at all.)

BTW- needing prayers! For humor and balance...Thanks!

Green, Glorious Green!

2012-02-28T06:11:00.002-05:00

Oscar jewels were ice and green this year. Lots and lots of ice- but the green was the best.

Anna Paquin's art deco earrings have a lot of color, but the green flashes beautifully.

Viola Davis' earring have it all. They may be the singularly most interesting pieces of the evening.

Berenice Bejo's earrings are classics.

A jade and diamond classic- not sure of the metal.

Ghost Mask

2012-02-28T05:00:00.000-05:00

Made of silver and the stone argillite, Ghost Mask was carved by Marcel Russ, of the Haida Nation. It's beauty is haunting, but only the person to whom it calls should purchase it. It waits at www.spiritwrestler.com.

Cross My Heart

2012-02-24T05:00:00.000-05:00

The granite and Tahitian pearl pin with 14 kt gold by Shaw Jewelers is a quiet and strong statement piece. It can also be worn as a pendant. What statement does it make? That is for the lady to decide.

Gates and Bunnies

2012-02-23T05:00:00.000-05:00

Mimi So's pink sapphire slice and 18 karat gold Gate B9 earrings can be purchased at Betteridge.

Mimi So's Gate B9 collection was inspired by an extended layover at the Milan airport where she "felt bound to the space, particularly to Gate B9." Her restlessness inspired her to sketch edgy shapes (probably to keep from slugging someone or crying) which developed into her Gate B9 collection.

At extended layovers, I feel edgy and bound to the gate too...before long it feels like this.

Rodin's Gates of Hell

When faced with first-world madness like extended layovers, I think about the ocean, jewelry, and/or bunnies. Yes, bunnies. Bunnies are adorable. Funny enough, Mimi So carved opals into bunnies, matched them with precious stones, and made adorable, exquisite rings.

Available at Betteridge. And look, he has Mimi So flowers...

Can you feel your blood pressure dropping? Ahhhhhhhhh...

Ash Wednesday- Faith and Courage

2012-02-22T05:00:00.000-05:00

Aurora Lopez Mejia's Faith and Courage Ring (18 kt gold, 1.75 carats of diamonds, 8 carats of chalcedony), is available at www.net-a-porter.com. Her web site states that she was the first to make the written word a design element in its most recent, modern incarnation.

Foiling

2012-02-21T05:00:00.002-05:00

Larkspur and Hawk's jewels are crafted with foiled colorless topaz- clear topaz backed by colored metal foil encased with silver across the stones' backs. This gemstone treatment dates as far back as 2000 BC and was common until the late 1800s. Great gemstone discoveries in the New World and Africa and new styles of stone cutting changed expectations so that jewels were to have naturally matching stones blazing with their own light.

Larkspur and Hawk's Celeste One Drop Earrings are made with white topaz and 22 kt washed sterling silver- the back encloses the foil. When viewed sideways, the purple of the foil reflects through the clear stone. They are available at Larkspur and Hawk.

Here are Larkspur and Hawk's Celeste One Drop earring made with 22 kt washed sterling and amethysts. The description does not say if their foiling is purple or white. The amethysts are more expensive and do not shine as brightly.

Precious stones' beauty depends on their interaction with light. Foiling enhances the light reflected from within a stone. Before brilliant cuts optimized internal reflection, before clear stones were relatively common, skilled jewelers and craftsmen coaxed more light from their stones by covering the stones' backs with highly reflective foils. By carefully coloring foils, jewelers and craftsmen whitened yellower stones and matched colored stones of different shades. Without foiling, jewels were less beautiful, so foiling was legitimate and desirable.

Pink topaz and chyrsoberyl, 18 kt, cannetille gold cross, made in the 1830s, available from www.langantiques.com.

Expect some antique jewelry to be foiled, especially from the Georgian and Victorian era. Victorian garnet jewelry was often foiled (or backed with gold) so that the stones had a fiery glow.

Victorian Bohemian garnet earrings, sold by The Three Graces, The Three Graces.

By the end of the 1800s, better stones were available, and the practice of foiling was used primarily to unethically disguise stones of lesser value. Buyers should beware of buying stones that are set in closed backs, even antiques. If purchasing antique jewelry with closed backs, ask about foiling or other treatments. Modern foiled jewelry disclosed as such is legitimate and can make beautiful, affordable jewelry.

Mardi Gras

2012-02-20T05:00:00.000-05:00

Every year, I give up jewelry for Lent. I don't wear anything other than my wedding ring and don't buy any either. Laugh if you like; it's hard! The few days before Ash Wednesday become a bling-a-thon, a frenzy of style and combination experiments.
Saturday I asymmetrically hung a gold, sword-shaped toothpick from a hoop earring. My husband liked it so much he spent most of a Metro ride trying to get a good picture. It must have looked good for him to notice, much less comment or photograph.

Sadly, I'm not in New Orleans this week. Mardi Gras with native NOLA residents is where it's at (shout out to Rachel and David). Me? I'll be in DC, preparing for Shrove/Fat Tuesday's church pancake supper, which I will attend dripping in jewels.

Wishing for Spring

2012-02-19T05:00:00.000-05:00

I hate snow. It's beautiful when it falls, but it should disappear as it hits the ground. Because we're anticipating snow, let's talk about spring...and spring jewelry.

Bright colors feature in every Spring 12 list. Last fall, blue was expected to be the "it" color this spring, but gloomy winter is working its magic, and yellow and green are showing up.

Irene Neuwirth's jewels are hot on the red carpets right now. She uses big, colorful stones like turquoise, chrysoprase, quartz, and lapis accented with diamonds to provide a pop that will last well past spring. These are turquoise and chrysoprase in white gold with diamonds and are available at www.barneys.com.

Larkspur and Hawk's Annabell Riviere, made of sterling silver and green and blue foil backed topaz, is a modern piece modeled after Georgian perfection, available at www.larkspurandhawk.com.

Another Spring 12 trend, not so much talked about as seen, is a reinvigoration of Retro's mechanical fluidity reworked to look forward, making a sci-fi statement that avoids geekery.

Laura Bohinc's Solar Eclipse bracelet, rose gold vermeil? Plate? The site is not clear. It is a huge, gorgeous thing, available at www.rubygold.com.

Dannijo's Zsa Zsa necklace is also not for the faint of heart- oxidized brass and sterling with Swarovski crystals. The crystals give it happy colors for spring and later. Available at www.dannijo.com.

Another overall trend this year is to go either large (or tiny), or go home. There is no room for conservative sizing. Layer delicate pendants and you'll totally be in style. Collar necklaces remain on point.

Silver Service's tiny bone butterfly on a sterling chain will flutter along with other charms that mean spring for you. Available at www.myflashtrash.com.

www.odetteny.com has a large collection of dainty items to be worn together, as does www.catbird.com.

Eddie Borgo silver plate, yellow turquoise, and hematite collar necklace for sale on www.net-a-porter. Yellow turquoise can be a number of things, none of which are chemically turquoise. It is often found in turquoise mines but has a lot of iron, making it a yellow color. Sometimes it is a mixture of quartz, jasper, and serpentine. Dyed howlite is another possibility, but probably not from Eddie Borgo.

If you are longing for flowers, florals are big this year. These aren't your grandmother's florals...although those are nice too.

Lapis, pressed coral, and gold plate earrings (earring, shown twice- grrr) by Lei Van Kash at www.leivankash.com. Sigh, skulls are STILL with us this year, but these, with their flowers and celestial blue, are more delightful than most. They'll look fantastic throughout the spring, through summer, and into fall.

Alexis Bittar's Grey Gardens floral pin shows that pins are in this spring! Fantastic!

Prickly Pear blossoms on a gold and diamond 1960s pin at www.langantiques.com, still fresh and new!

Let it snow- spring will follow soon enough. Everything has it's season, and the season for these goodies will soon come.

"Basic" Bracelets

2012-02-18T05:00:00.000-05:00

These have texture, heft, and movement.

www.1stdibs.com

John Iverson, www.twist.com

This one could be from an archelogical dig. Those pretty stems look like they are tucked under and down, but would they snag on things?

Without the Weight

2012-02-17T05:00:00.000-05:00

This bracelet, designed by Judy Geib, has the beauty of gold interspersed with the allure of opals and silver. Unlike the others this week, it's slightly fragile looking, due to its filigree. It's a beautiful example of how gold filigree is becoming a more common design elements, probably because of the insane price of gold.

Available at www.barneys.com.

An Ideal

2012-02-16T05:00:00.000-05:00

Henry Dunay at www.1stdibs.com- sigh.

That'll dress up blue jeans.

Two Obsessions in One

2012-02-15T05:00:00.000-05:00

These gold bracelets are magnificent, not only for the amazing heft of the 18 kt gold but because the designer, Cresta Bledsoe, incorporates petrified shark teeth into them. I'd wear either one of these every day! These are totally me! Find them at www.crestabledsoe.com.

Obsession- Gold Bracelets

2012-02-14T21:09:00.000-05:00

I want a gold bracelet...not a thin, jangling bangle, but a thick gold band that completes every outfit. In honor of my desire, the rest of the week will feature gold bracelets that make me drool.

I like these two because they are a matched Victorian set. During the Victorian period, many bracelets were made in pairs, one for each arm. Over time they've been separated from their mates. In honor of Valentine's Day, I'd wear these two together on one arm, luxuriating in their color, texture, and combined rarity. They're available at www.langantiques.com.

Really Cheesy!

2012-02-08T05:00:00.000-05:00

What do you call a fake noodle? An im-pasta!

Like these earrings from Dolce and Gabbana's Spring 12 collection:

There is a fantastic DIY to make real pasta earrings like these on the blog Honestly...WTF at http://honestlywtf.com/diy/diy-dolce-gabbana-pasta-earrings/.

If that terrible joke made you smile, pass it along!

Monday!

2012-02-06T05:00:00.000-05:00

AVANT!

Amuck Jewelry at www.amuckdesign.com

Les Enluminures

2012-02-04T11:33:00.000-05:00

Les Enluminures, a Parisian gallery, handles highly specialized and exceptionally rare works of art of museum quality from the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, including rings. They also have earlier rings, like this beautiful sardonyx and gold 2d or 3d century Roman ring. While ancient, it looks no worse for wear than items found in our grandmother's jewelry boxes. Who wore it? What was his or her story? Stories? How did the ring survive all of those years?

Ring after ring at Les Enluminures lead you to daydreaming. This amethyst bead and gold granulation ring from the Byzantine Empire, 1100-ish, should have some very special tales. Imagine how this ring reflected the status of its owner. It's center stone is a repurposed amethyst bead, a reminder of a time when amethyst was one of the most precious, rare stones and stone beads were products of time intensive labor, a time when light only came from the sky or fire.

And why, exactly, did medieval people give their rings (more precious and rare then than now) to St. Blaise, hanging them on his arm's wood and gilt reliquary at Braunschwieg from 1050 until the 1500s? St. Blaise is the patron saint of wool combers and is invoked for assistance with sore throats and sometimes sickness in general, so did these people suffer sore throats? Were they burghers who earned their riches in the wool trade? Did they give away their rings as supplication or in gratitude for cures? Did they get their throats blessed on 4 February, St. Blaise's feast day?

According to Les Enluminures, the rings have stayed are where they were hung, the changes in their styles showing the years passing but faith remaining. The reliquary is not for sale, but rings similar to and contemporaries of the saint's rings are.

And the more time you spend, the more treasures your encounter. What a wonderful site... Les Enluminures.

Whew- what a week!

2012-02-03T05:00:00.000-05:00

I've started a new job- a job that a friend of mine refers to as "a bobsled to hell." It's all consuming at this point, so my blogging has been sporadic- I'm sorry.

While the job is a lot of fun and I learn more every day, the pressure will turn me into a diamond before I'm done. During the day, I return to my happy place where gold, glorious gold, soothes and relaxes me.

Bison ring by Whitney Abrams

Pearl, diamond, and gold earrings by Whitney Abrams- are these waiting for me?

Victorian agate and 9 kt rose gold earrings on 1stDibs

Thank God I don't have time for retail therapy! I'd put us in the poor house!

Musing on Jewelry and Emus

2012-01-28T05:00:00.000-05:00

These are Eniko Design's ammolite earrings; I wrote about them in December, gloating that I was getting them for Christmas. They change colors like butterfly wings or parrot feathers, organic, mineral magic- or miracle.

I had the gold and lapis necklace made with three ropes of large lapis beads of different sizes and shapes, tiered like Jackie O's pearls. It's great for a strong burst of color since nothing beats lapis for color. Any suggestions for the seven (heavy) left over beads?

The green emu egg looks like a dinosaur egg, so it seems appropriate for fossil earrings. It fed our family of four as an apple souffle at breakfast and then as a quiche for dinner, about four total cups of beaten egg.

When you are eye to eye with an emu, the lizard part of your brain knows that you've encountered a dinosaur. Watch out for your jewelry- emus snatch at shiny things to eat them. When an emu grabbed my keys, the only reason it did not swallow them was because the wallet to which they were attached was too big to fit down its throat.

Universalism

2012-01-25T05:00:00.001-05:00

Imagine my surprise when I downloaded my camera and this was on it! Doesn't she look lovely? A few of my pieces are there too...another surprise...

I'd never told my daughter about the mysterious loss of my mother's pearl earrings. When I was two or three years old, my mother's pearl earrings vanished. My mother looked and looked and looked for her good pearls, to no avail. She resigned herself to their loss. Then, about a month later, she picked up my Old Green Rabbit and there they were, stuck in his floppy ears. Even then, I liked the good stuff and knew you gave it to loved ones.

But don't all little girls like "the good stuff?" This photo is more proof that, "All women are from the same tribe." Does anyone have stories you would like to share or photos of favorite dolls or stuffed animals decked out in gold and jools?

Support Free Speech

2012-01-23T08:27:00.003-05:00

Salman Rushdie continues to be persecuted and hunted for writing The Satanic Verses, published in 1988. For fear of being killed by assassins and for fear of demonstrations organized by a conservative Islamic seminary, Rushdie did not attend the Mumbai Book Festival. After he did not attend, supporters (Hari Kunzru, Amitava Kumar, Jeet Thayil, and Ruchir Joshi) briefly read from the The Satanic Verses at the festival (not a planned event but in response to the situation). These authors rapidly left India because they and the festival are now under police investigation because The Satanic Verses are banned in India. India has not had the moral courage to tell the bigots to shut up and be civilized or face swift punishment if they commit crimes.

Once again, bigots seek to kill and silence those who express ideas that they don't like. And they are supported by those who blame the victim of their threats.

I am sick to death of bullies.  Citizens of the world must do something against bigots attacking authors and editors. I ask you to read The Satanic Verses and talk about it. Blog about it. Blog your support for Hari Kunzru, Amitava Kumar, Jeet Thayil, and Ruchir Joshi. Write a letter to the Indian Embassy expressing your outrage with India's censorship of the book and India's failure to ensure Rushdie's safety from harm by appropriately responding to those who threaten him. Write Oprah and ask her to continue to throw her popularity behind anti-censorship (she was feted like a queen at the Mumbai Book Festival) and in favor of those who read aloud from the book at the festival. Write our State Department and ask it to support those who read from The Satanic Verses.

Embassy of India
2107 Massachusetts Ave NW
Washington DC 20008

"Oprah's" blog is http://www.oprah.com/blogs/index.html

Her address is:
Harpo Productions, Inc.
110 N. Carpenter Street
Chicago Illinois 60607

Links covering the flap:
http://www.guardian.co.uk/books/2012/jan/20/salman-rushdie-jaipur-india-literary-festival
http://news.yahoo.com/rushdie-speak-video-india-book-fest-093012649.html
http://ibnlive.in.com/news/arrest-threat-forces-authors-to-leave-jaipur-fest/223353-40-100.html

Art Smith for Monday

2012-01-23T05:00:00.003-05:00

Half and Half Necklace

Bauble Necklace

Galaxy Necklace with earrings

Signed Art Smith pieces are still available. While he signed a lot of his pieces, sometimes he did not sign his signature pieces. Some collectors avidly bought from him while his store was open, and some people have pieces he designed for the theater and for dance troupes, so learn the provenance if you get a piece. I hope you've enjoyed seeing these wonderful creations as much as I've enjoyed posting them! I hope they made you think about the body's space for jewelry!

What I Want to See at the Golden Globes

2012-01-21T05:00:00.002-05:00

I want to see someone eschew the diamonds and platinum at the Golden Globes or Oscars or any of the fancy Hollywood events this year in favor of this.

Art Smith's Boa Necklace

Please, someone be really daring and wear this beautiful, Modernist piece. Tilda, darling, you could do this easily; Heidi, dear, you could make it work; Nicole- please rock this! Someone, please, break out of the box and wear something out of this world!

Art Smith For Friday

2012-01-20T05:00:00.000-05:00

Modern Cuff

Patina Necklace

More Art Smith

2012-01-19T05:00:00.001-05:00

I want the necklace/belt Art Smith is holding. Look at his ring and the pieces on the table behind him!

Knuckle Duster Ring- This ring resembles the design of the ring he's wearing in the photo.

Undulation Ring- I can't tell if it stretches across fingers or down one.

Art Smith

2012-01-18T05:00:00.002-05:00

This necklace caused my heart to skip a beat. Brass and tiger eye, I can feel how it would rest on my collar bones and the cold stone ball would bump against my skin. Can you hear the noise the chain would make rubbing against the metal? What's not to love?

As of that moment, I flipped for Art Smith.

Art Smith was a Modernist jeweler and artist who ran his store in Greenwich Village from 1946 until his death in the 1980s. Born in Cuba to Jamaican parents, he was reared in Brooklyn and was 100% a New Yorker. His jewelry in copper, brass, and silver (very little gold) is sculpture for the body and jewelry that can hang on the wall. His interest in jazz and theater shines through his works- some of them are like seeing jazz, like the Ellington necklace below, named for The Duke.

I see these pieces and I swear a little voice in my head says, "OhGodohGodohGodohGod...."

A Shout Out...

2012-01-16T18:20:00.001-05:00

Introducing the lovely and vivacious Natasha Ray. She's a celebrity manicurist (according to her business card), and if you need a Minx manicure in DC- she's your gal at minxdc@hotmail.com! Her jewelry was totally on-trend. If only the photo had captured the sparkles from the ring's little stones; they were scintillating polkadots.

Thanks for letting me harass you at the mall, Natasha.

If you are wondering what Minx manicures are, shoot Natasha a note or check out www.wendybrandes.com for a Minx education with photos (and some lovely jewelry).

Just Prettiness...

2012-01-15T09:02:00.000-05:00

Sometimes something just strikes the right cord, like these aquamarine, tourmaline, labradorite, and moonstone earrings by Nak Armstrong, available at www.barneys.com. I must be on a pastels kick. Sigh...

If you prefer something more historically shaped, Nak Armstrong made this pair of moonstone, aquamarine, tourmaline, labradorite, and onyx. These remind me of African masks.

Has anyone else noticed how often photos of "pairs" of earrings are really photos of only one earring copied to look like two? Why is that? Especially because these photos are supposed to convince us to buy these items? The suspicious part of me (the one that knows firsthand that there are unscrupulous people lurking in the jewelry industry) wonders, "What's wrong with the other one?'

An Elf Stone

2012-01-13T05:00:00.001-05:00

31.31 carat green beryl in platinum with .60 carats diamonds, www.langantiques.com

In the book The Lord of the Rings, the elf lord Glorfindel leaves a green beryl jewel as a token that the heroes, fleeing before the Nazgul and fearing ambush, can cross a bridge safely. It is described as, "a single pale-green jewel...a beryl, an elf-stone." That got me to thinking about what I knew about green beryl and what I did not.

Marco Molinaro at www.osterjewelers.com, 16.27 carat green beryl in 18 kt white gold with .75 ctw diamonds

I knew green beryl was of the same family as emerald, aquamarine, morganite (pink beryl), and heliodor (yellow beryl). I knew it was available in large stones and the standard for gemstone quality green beryl is depth of color and clarity (like aquamarines). But I wasn't sure about the difference in color between emeralds and green beryls and green beryls and natural, unheated aquamarines.

Robert Procop's earrings, www.robertprocop.com

But the answer is in Tolkien- a pale-green stone. It lacks an emerald's intensity and an aquamarine's bluish color. Most jewelry pieces favor larger stones, perhaps to increase the color.

Available at Lang's antiques, www.langantiques.com, 16.75 carat green beryl with .60 carats diamonds and yellow and white 18 kt gold

I couldn't find any jewelry that looked elvish, but this stone is amazing. Perhaps this is what Strider found on the bridge...

Fantasy cut by Dalan Hargrave, a 125 carat green beryl that was Best In Show at the 2004 AGTA Spectrum Competition

For Charis

2012-01-12T05:00:00.000-05:00

Mark Davis' Charis bracelet, made of Bakelite and 42.46 carats yellow beryl set in 18 kt yellow gold, http://www.betteridge.com/mark-davis/bracelets/ba/

A Jewelry Movie- My Precious...

2012-01-09T06:30:00.000-05:00

In the movie The Lord of the Rings, Peter Jackson did a great job making the One Ring, an inanimate object, a character. It has a cameo in The Hobbit trailer.

Should be fun to see what Jackson does with the Arkenstone, a huge diamond over which a war is almost fought. It is a red herring- the real plot device is the plain gold ring ignored in the hobbit Bilbo's pocket.

Due out in December 2012!

A Great Day On Line!

2012-01-06T20:23:00.000-05:00

Just a quick jewelry blog update:

Check out www.luckymag.com for a free chance to win tip-of-the-trend diamond jewelry by names you'll recognize, like Bittersweet, Diamonds In the Rough, and many, many others. The total amount of diamond jewelry Lucky is giving away is over $125,000! So enter- you may get Lucky!The drawing is at the end of February, so you have time...but there are so many opportunities you'll need to get started now. Best of all, you can enter with email. So many sites require Facebook or Twitter to enter these days so that those of us with privacy issues can't play. It's my choice, but I AM grateful to Lucky Magazine for sticking with email entries.

ONE of the prizes is a $3,500 shopping spree at Greenwich Jewelers, and there are three of those!

Www.Jewelsnob.com has an article about Plukka, a company that sells cutting edge jewelry for significantly less than it retails due to...well, check it out. I'll be bookmarking Pluka's website (www.plukka.com) and hitting it frequently since it definitely fits my motto: "Never pay retail for jewelry."

Plukka's Coliseum ring, 18 kt white gold, .90 carats diamonds, "historically accurate" walls- event begins 15 Jan.

Charm and Chain's blog, at http://blog.charmandchain.com/, has the best guest blogger ever. Sari Tuschman blogged about jewelry and its relation to time and emotion, as well as told an inspirational story about a jewelry collection. Plus, you can see a jawdroppingly beautiful engagement ring. Congratulations Ali Galgano!

Splendor is back! Yay!!!! http://carlotta-wwwsplendor.blogspot.com/

Astley Clarke has a 50% off sale with designer pieces like the Jules Verne Baby Jellyfish ring, by Stephen Webster, up for grabs for 50% off! This meets the dictum, "Never pay retail for jewelry," so snap up pieces by Pippa Small, Alex Monroe, and many, many others.

18 kt white gold and black and white diamonds at www.astleyclarke.com/uk

The Twelfth Day of Christmas- Epiphany

2012-01-05T05:00:00.003-05:00

Today is the day to celebrate the Three Kings' arrival to worship the Christ child. They brought gifts of gold, frankincense and myrrh. Because they were wise men, they brought easily portable, small, valuable gifts...easy to pack onto camels, horses, and donkeys.

Detail of "Adoration of the Magi" by Fabriano

And on this twelfth day of Christmas,
My true love gave to me (sing with me now!),
Twelve drummers drumming...

Gold, diamond, and titanium necklace by Abrasha, available at www.denovo.com

Eleven pipers piping...

Pipedreams' necklace at www.notjustalabel.com

Ten lords a'leaping...

Gold and maw sit-sit, at www.1stdibs.com

Nine ladies dancing...

Lalique

Eight maids a'milking...

Gold and enamel Georgian bangle, www.pastera.com

Seven swans a'swimming...
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Verdura

Six geese a'laying...

Marcus Berkmer

Five gooooolllllllldddd rings....

No credits because I took this one.

Four calling birds...

White gold and diamond brooches, www.1stdibs.com

Three French hens...

Red Hot Chicky, www.soakrepublic.com

Two turtledoves...

Lovebirds ring, www.alexmonroe.com

And a partridge in a pear tree!

Opal Fruit Cuff by Solange Azagury-Partridge

Whew! Hope your holidays were merry and bright and that you stay warm for the rest of the winter. There is good news- our days are getting longer now, even if they are colder!

The Eleventh Day of Christmas

2012-01-04T05:00:00.003-05:00

On the eleventh day of Christmas,

My true love gave to me,
Elven pipers piping,
Ten lords a'leaping,
Nine ladies dancing,
Eight maids a'milking,
Seven swans a'swimming,
Six geese a'laying,
Five gold rings,
Four calling birds,
Three French hens,
Two turtledoves,
And a partridge in a pear tree!

Necklace by Pipedreams at Not Just a Label

1st Dibs

Lalique

www.pastera.com

Verdura

Marcus Berkmer

1st Dibs

Soak Republic

Alex Monroe

Solange Azagury-Partridge

The Tenth Day of Christmas

2012-01-03T05:00:00.001-05:00

On the tenth day of Christmas,
My true love gave to me,
Ten lords a'leaping,
Nine ladies dancing,
Eight maids a'milking,
Seven swans a'swimming,
Six geese a'laying,
Five gold rings,
Four calling birds,
Three French hens,
And a partridge in a pear tree.

Maw sit-sit and 18 kt cuff links, www.1stdibs.com

Lalique

Past Era

Verdura

Marcus Berkner

1st Dibs

Soak Republic

Alex Monroe

Solange Azagury-Partridge

The Ninth Day of Christmas

2012-01-02T05:00:00.002-05:00

On the ninth day of Christmas,
My true love gave to me,
Nine ladies dancing,
Eight maids a'milking,
Seven swans a'swimming,
Six geese a'laying,
Five gold rings,
Four calling birds,
Three French hens,
Two turtledoves,
and a partridge in a pear tree.

Rene Lalique

Available at Past Era

Verdura

Marcus Berkner

1st Dibs

Soak Republic

Alex Monroe

Solange Azagury-Partridge

The Eighth Day of Christmas- and Happy New Year!

2012-01-01T05:00:00.003-05:00

On the eighth day of Christmas,
My true love gave to me,
Eight maids a'milking,
Seven swans a'swimming,
Six geese a'laying,
Five golden eggs,
Four calling birds,
Three French hens,
Two turtledoves,
And a partridge in a pear tree!

Painted Georgian bracelet, gold and enamel, available at www.pastera.com.

Verdura

Marcus Berkner

1stDibs

Soak Republic

Alex Monroe

Solange Azagury-Partridge

The Seventh Day of Christmas

2011-12-31T05:00:00.001-05:00

On the Seventh Day of Christmas,
My true love gave to me,
Seven swans a'swimming,
Six geese a'laying,
Five gold rings,
Four calling birds,
Three French hens,
Two turtledoves,
And a partridge in a pear tree.

Babe Paley's Verdura swan brooch

Marcus Berkner

1st Dibs

Soak Republic

Alex Monroe

Solange Azagury-Partridge

Sixth Day of Christmas

2011-12-30T11:54:00.000-05:00

On the sixth day of Christmas,
My true love gave to me,
Six geese a laying,
five golden rings,
four calling birds,
three French hens,
two turtledoves,
and a partridge in a pear tree!

These look like eggs but they are actually sterling casts of oak pods, what I grew up calling "galls," that Marcus Berkmer opened from the front and cleaned out, adding Baltic amber cabochons. These and other pretty silver things can be found at MarcusBerknerJewelry on Etsy. http://www.etsy.com/shop/MarcusBerknerJewelry?ref=seller_info

www.1stdibs.com

www.soakrepublic.com

www.alexmonroe.com

www.solangeazagurypartridge.com

The Fifth Day of Christmas

2011-12-29T05:00:00.001-05:00

On the fifth day of Christmas,
My true love gave to me,
Five gold rings!
Four calling birds,
Three French hens,
Two turtledoves,
And a partridge in a pear tree.

Diamond brooches, 1st Dibs

Red hot chicky ring by Soak Republic

Love Birds Ring by Alex Monroe

Opal Fruits Cuff by Solange Azagury-Partridge

The Fourth Day of Christmas

2011-12-28T05:00:00.000-05:00

On the fourth day of Christmas,
My true love gave to me,
Four calling birds,
Three French hens,
Two turtledoves,
And a partridge in a pear tree.

Diamond and 18 kt white gold brooches, 1st Dibs, www.1stdibs.com

Red hot chicky ring, Soak Republic

Love Bird Ring, Alex Monroe

Opal Fruit Cuff, Solange Azagury-Partridge

The Third Day of Christmas

2011-12-27T05:00:00.001-05:00

On the third day of Christmas,
My true love gave to me,
Three French hens,
Two turtledoves,
And a partridge in a pear tree.

Red hot chicky ring, part of the Safari collection by Soak Republic, www.soakrepublic.com

Love Bird Ring by Alex Monroe

Opal Fruit Cuff by Solange Azagury-Partridge

The Second Day of Christmas

2011-12-26T11:17:00.000-05:00

On the second day of Christmas,
my true love gave to me,
Two turtledoves and a partridge in a pear tree...

Actually, they are Reed Warblers...by Alex Monroe

Opal Fruit Cuff by Solange Azagury-Partridge

1st Day of Christmas

2011-12-25T17:54:00.000-05:00

On the first day of Christmas,
my truelove gave to me,
a partridge in a pear tree- a Solange Azagury-Partridge...

Her Opal Fruit Cuff is 18 kt blackened white gold with an opal center stone surrounded by rows of pave "rainbow" diamonds. Sheer, over the top, trippy gorgeousness- a much better true love gift than a ground dwelling bird in an unseasonal fruit tree.

To all of you, may your Christmas season be full of true love and the hope that Christ's birth gave to the world! Merry Christmas!

Solstice

2011-12-21T07:09:00.000-05:00

Andrew Geoghegan's Satellite Line is perfect for illuminating the darkest day of the year.

Peridot, fire opal, diamonds, and white, yellow, and rose gold. http://www.andrewgeoghegan.com/

Christmas Roses

2011-12-20T07:47:00.001-05:00

Today's offering is an oldy but a goody- the Van Cleef and Arpel's Rose et Noel design. It's a beautiful jewel for the season. In the story of the Christmas Rose, a little shepherdess cries because she has nothing to bring to the newborn Christ, not even a lamb or a drumbeat. A pitying angel transforms her tears into white roses that she joyfully and reverently presents to the baby Jesus. The Christmas Rose is traditionally planted by the door to welcome Jesus into the home.

Speaking of God-stuff, Christmas is like getting married or having a baby. It's never a good time; they never match our expectations but come together and are miraculous anyway; wedding days and birthing days really are only important because they begin grand adventures. So I light our Advent candles at dinner and join the real season- the season of joyful waiting.

2011-12-16T05:00:00.001-05:00

It's not a secret here that what I really want for Christmas is kittens. (This is a jewelry blog- auctions, bathrooms, and kittens [oh my!] notwithstanding. Work with me here...) I'm getting lovely bling, but kittens would be the best. I'm not expectant; I'm not even looking.

Those of us whose spouses developed allergies after marriage must console ourselves with Bittersweet NY's kitty ring, sold by www.catbirdnyc.com.

Unlike a lot of cat jewelry, this ring does not attempt a realistic cat- something that usually fails. Even Da Vinci's cats were not quite right.

These tiny rings come in pink and yellow gold and are ideal for when the kitty craving hits before you can find a friend's cat willing to be snuggled or to condescend to purr.

The Liz Taylor Memorial Bathroom

2011-12-15T06:17:00.000-05:00

This evening I will sit hunched over the computer, vulture-like, bidding on my choices from the ET on-line auction. However, looking at the prices that are already listed, I'm thinking we may take the money I would spend on bling and remodel the bathroom.

We could call it the Liz Taylor Memorial Bathroom; if I hadn't budgeted the for the auction we would not have realized it was available. Thanks Liz! Thanks Christies!

Eye Candy

2011-12-14T05:00:00.000-05:00

Get your hands on a paper copy of this year's Sundance Christmas Jewelry Catalogue! Unfortunately, their website barely touches on the delicous subject matter in the paper catalogue. The photos of the jewelry and candy are festive, fun, and mouthwatering. I can't decide what to look at on each page- the modern jewelry with the funky vibe or the old fashioned lollipops and jellies! Tres yummy!

Irene Neuwirth

2011-12-13T05:00:00.000-05:00

Ms. Neuwirth makes her jewelry of brightly colored hardstones and diamonds with an attention to detail that elevates it to fine jewelry. Edges are milgrained; stones are set higher in their bezel settings so that they cannot flip when being worn. These are jewels that make the wearer shine and sparkle- perfect for day, perfect for night.

Labradorite, diamonds, and gold necklace at Barneys New York

Boulder opal and gold ring, Barneys New York

I hadn't noticed until now that these are both phenomenal gemstones. That's a fancy way of saying that their crystalline structure causes them to interact with light in unusual ways. Both labradorite and opal are made of repeated, microscopic layers that reflect and refract light rays. What the layers are made of and how they lie on top of one another determine the depth and clarity of the colors you see.

Phenomenal gems are one of God's great giggles. "Take a look at these," God seems to say, "Aren't these just COOL?" But I think He likes them all, and gets kick out of us making beautiful things- our creativity is a pale reflection of His.

Pink tourmaline and gold necklace, 32 inches, Ylang23

What I Saw At the Christie's Exhibit

2011-12-12T05:00:00.001-05:00

There was plenty of food for thought among the glorious gems.

Liz Taylor's jewelry boxes are on display. She kept and labeled them (with a label machine and white label tape) with the names of the people who gave them to her, the date, and the circumstance. What do you think? Was this the action of a collector who knew later collectors would value the jewels' provenance or were they trophies? Would you do such a thing? Do you tell your children the stories of your jewelry? "This was your great grandmother's ring. This one was your great-aunt's. Your father bought this for me in Saudi."

An exhibit of jewelry boxes, with the worst photos of Mike Todd giving Liz Taylor a diamond necklace. She looked frumpy!

I watched my daughter (so much her father- she quickly looked, saw her favorites from the catalogues, then found a bench and read a book), and knew I would not leave my jewelry to anyone except my girls. Why didn't Taylor leave her best jewels to her children? Did they talk about it beforehand or did they feel betrayed? Did they tell her they did not want the insurance/body guards her collection necessitated? Did Liz Taylor leave her children their favorites? The costume jewelry brooch she bought for her mother as a child, with the loving note from her mother when she gave it back years later, is for sale. That would be an heirloom in our house, costume or no. I felt sorry for the brooch- to be so loved and now to be sold from the family.

Ms. Taylor and her children at Buckingham Palace the day she became Dame Taylor- she's wearing the Van Cleef earrings she designed for the day. They are up for auction too.

The crowd was huge. The lines were like Disney World. There were prospective buyers discretely escorted by Christie's employees quietly describing pieces. They were circumspect and did not stand out among the throngs of gawkers. The gawkers (including us) ranged from those who were movie and Liz Taylor fans to those who were jewelery fanatics. Considering tickets to get in were not cheap, the ones who were neither confused me. I enjoyed a woman who said the jewels were convincing her to get hers out and wear them again; she collected for years but was out of practice wearing them. Her advice for potential collectors- go to estate sales. She and I had totally opposite tastes. I also liked the lady in sweatpants who loved jewelry, knew all about Liz Taylor, and was thrilled to see the best of the best.

I got educated regarding color. Now I understand what color good emeralds are supposed to be and how heavenly sapphires are. I'd never seen that perfect, Crayola blue in person before- and had I been able to take something home, it would have been a toss up between the ruby ring (more about that below) and this sapphire necklace and its perfect, perfect blue. That blue is the color of eternity.

The display cases were glass, so you could see the backs of the jewelry! That was great! I'm a huge fan of scoping out the finish of jewelry, so to see the back of the JAR balls was fantastic- they are complete spheres except for an small hole on the back, sort of like the hole in a sea urchin skeleton. The hole was ringed in white diamonds, the same size as the sapphires that covered the ball. Lovely finishing. First time I saw JAR in person too- and there were other, patinaed JAR earrings too. The rose petals looked like rose petals; that do they look like on?

The ruby ring Richard Burton gave Liz Taylor for Christmas, "the perfect ruby ring," glows with the truest meaning of red. It is so powerfully red that you don't notice that the diamonds surrounding it are about a carat (or more) each. When Dracula said, "The blood is life," he described this ruby. It should be alive. Photos fail miserably to capture its presence.

Was delighted to see a Bob Dylan poster he'd inscribed in purple ink for "Liz" and a poster from Michael Jackson proclaiming "Liz" was the love of his life. He bought her some thrilling (har har har) pieces including a sapphire ring that could summon angels. I also thought it was cool that her luggage (piles of it) was scuffed and obviously well-used. Here was a woman who did not throw something away if it still worked.
It was a wonderful chance to see the best of the best. I've overused the world "amazing" so I'll use "awesome" in its original meaning. It messed with my sense of normality. Before the Peregrina Pearl at the end of the exhibit, there was a(nother) display of diamond jewels. In the case was a "little" yellow gold bow of pave diamonds, about two inches across. My first thought was, "Awww, what a cute little bow." Come again? If I owned it, it would be the pride of my collection! Time to savor one more flash of clear diamond light, one more emerald and sapphire blaze, and return to reality- where a one carat diamond ring is a reasonably large ring.
For those who cannot go, click here and watch what Christies has to say about the auction. You can see some of the colors in the gems...http://www.christies.com/features/collection-of-elizabeth-taylor-the-making-of-an-au-1993-3.aspx

Public Service Announcement

2011-12-11T18:38:00.002-05:00

Liz Taylor specified that she wanted her jewels broken up so that others could enjoy them. I assumed that she meant her famous jewels and was saddened that the Mike Todd ruby set and her eye popping emeralds will be split up and sold separately. But now, having wandered through Christie's first ever, exclusively on-line ONLY auction, I understand.  Her collection is freakin' huge. It's breadth and depth span time, jewelry houses, styles, continents, and cultures, making it mind boggling in its complexity. Hundreds of people are needed to really appreciate her collection's contents.

The email address is www.christies.com/etonlineonly. Get yourself a cup of coffee, tell the family to leave you a little space, and wander through the collection of the one of the greatest collectors the world has ever seen.  So far, the prices are reasonable, but that may change as time gets closer to closing. Bidding begins to close on the 15th and finishes on the 17th.
The auction encompasses clothing, accessories, shoes, costume jewelry, art, and glassware.  Riddle me this, Batman. How can a piece of costume jewelry, no matter who made it or how big and flashy, be called "Important?" I know what that means in the jewelry trade, but not so much for gilt and glass.
More tomorrow about what I saw at the exhibit in NYC...but for now, a piece from the on-line auction, a Ghandi ring, signed Fennel.

More Verdura Dreams

2011-12-08T05:00:00.000-05:00

I've noticed my boy Fulco's jewelry is popping up all over the place. You can't read a fashion mag or blog without seeing someone discovering the glories of Verdura. The December issue of InStyle has a Verdura Maltese Cross in the article, "Be Dazzled." Very cool.
Here are some Verdura lovelies from www.1stdibs.com. Which is your favorite?

Black jade and 18 kt gold, 1990s

Peridot, diamond, and 18 kt gold, 1950s

Garnet, diamond, and 18 kt gold cross, 1990s

This month's issue of InStyle has great jewelry, so take a look if you can. It also has the best photo of Nicole Kidman taken lately, unfortunately without any of her amazing jewelry. Hopefully she'll do a book some day.

I Almost Did Not Run This Post

2011-12-07T05:00:00.021-05:00

I almost did not run this artist, fearing you would leave me in Etsy-induced disgust, but I had to. Her name is Amie Louise Plante, and her lichen earrings, necklace, and bracelet (as shown on the model at http://www.amieplante.com/shop.html) make me weak at the knees. Going through her Etsy store (she has a forge in RI) fills me with peace. Her nature-inspired jewels are understated and perfect in every way. They are suitable for brides, ladies who work, ladies who lunch, hippies, artists, corporate sharks, punks, grandmothers, dressy events, picnics in the woods, and any situation where you need to glow. Best of all, they won't kill your budget. If you are looking for gasp-worthy, artfully made jewelry for those on your list who love quirky elegance, spend a few happy minutes wandering through Ms. Plante's shop. http://www.amieplante.etsy.com/

Carnation Necklace- silver

Eucalyptus Petal Necklace- silver and freshwater pearl

Carved Petal Hoop Earrings, silver

Pollen Earrings- silver and 14 kt green gold

Things That make You Say "Hmmmm."

2011-12-06T05:00:00.001-05:00

So in the spring of 2007 I bought a stack of ten wicker bracelets at a temple in Cambodia for $5.00. They are light, durable, and perfectly stack when it is bone-melting hot in the summer or provide texture to gold in the winter. I've had wicker chairs that did not last five years, and my cheap bracelets are starting to think about fraying. Last week, I realized that I really did not want to have to buy a ticket to go back to Cambodia to get $5.00 bracelets.

Viola! Ask and you shall receive! I found a full set, plus a slightly larger set, at a silent auction yesterday. Violently growling at anyone who looked interested, I got them for $10.00! This saved me $1,722! Score! After the auction, the lady who donated them told me that she'd loved them when she bought them at a regional airport from a native vendor in Johannesburg South Africa.

Go figure- her "African" bracelets are identical to my "Cambodian" bracelets are identical to these in the photo which I've taken from a vintage store on Etsy. Somewhere, probably Hong Kong, a sweatshop is churning out "indigenous" bracelets for vendors to sell to tourists.

Cyber Monday

2011-11-28T05:00:00.001-05:00

While I've heard complaints that Etsy does not have any fine jewelers, that has not been my experience. I have showcased some of Etsy's small fine jewelers and metal smiths here before. Last week, I featured a pair of earrings from SimplyUniqueJD, and in honor of Cyber Monday, here are a few more of their fine items.

14 kt bangle with diamonds and opal

14 kt gold with diamonds and turquoise

All of his filigree is freehand. All of his metals are gold. He uses unusual gemstones, like fire agate and mawsitsit, as well. If you see something you like, I recommend you buy it then. His pieces move fairly quickly.

Black Friday

2011-11-25T05:00:00.001-05:00

Gold, diamonds, and enamel, by Loren Jewels, www.lorenjewels.com

Rejoice and Be Glad For Today Is the Day the Lord Hath Made

2011-11-24T05:00:00.000-05:00

Happy Thanksgiving to all! It is the best possible Thanksgiving for our family. On Friday, my father-in-law had a stroke. The clan assembled from all over, expecting the worst. After four days in ICU and one day in a regular room, he was released on Tuesday. The only residual effect is that he is unsteady walking; the doctors are using the word, "Miraculous."
But how to sum up all of this, and the holiday, into a jewelry post? I'd thought to do something with pumpkins, and found an antique tea set on 1st Dibs (where else?) that was not cutesy.

www.1stdibs.com - love the ivory plugs that keep heat from conducting from the body onto the handles

But the set was a solitaire set (say it with a fancy French accent since it was made by a French silversmith) made for a bachelor's home use. That isn't right for Thanksgiving, when everyone should be with those they love, whether blood or not.

But then I found Meister Eckhart's quote: "If the only prayer you said in your whole life was 'Thank you,' that would suffice." That summed it up and made the jewelry choice clear.

Sideways cross necklace at www.roseark.com

We'll be saying, "Thank you," a lot this Thanksgiving. God bless you, dear reader, and have a happy and blessed Thanksgiving too.

More Underwear and Jewelry

2011-11-23T05:00:00.000-05:00

I couldn't do a jewelry and underwear post for A5 without immediately being reminded of the 10 November Victoria's Secret fashion show. The outfits the models were were definitely costume, and the jewelry likewise, but it was so much fun!

Is the 2.5 million dollar bra, in diamonds, pearls, aquamarines, sapphires, et al jewelry? Sure- why not?

Loved this look- the long necklaces that were actually clips and a choker. Loving the "jet" and "cameos." The Victorians, with all of their kinks and oddities, would have approved.

There are so many great jewelry moments in that show! There is jeweled armor, tons of bracelets and pop art with the Pink collection, and old fashioned gorgeous statement pieces for angels and brides. Jewelry fiends should watch the show on 29 November on CBS...a number of the jewelry extravagances here will probably reappear on the next season's catwalks.

Who Wears What?

2011-11-22T05:00:00.001-05:00

A5, the name of three contemporary jewelry artists based in Stockholm Sweden, Denmark, produced a show called "Vem Bar Vad?" or "Who Wears What?" In it, they showed clean underwear donated by volunteers with photos of either jewelry they frequently wore or what they wished they wore. The intent was to contrast how people presented themselves privately and publicly.

Sorry about the margin, but you should be able to see the details...

So who do you show the world you are...and who are you when you are stripped (almost) to your skin? Is your jewelry armor, provocateur, or advertising?

And are the multicolored briefs for a man or a woman? The multicolored bracelet indicates they are a woman's briefs...I'm thinking I like the fancy pants!

Ammonites and Ammolites

2011-11-21T05:00:00.001-05:00

This funky critter, an ammonite called Ateroceras, represents the family of ammonites that lived from 400 to 65.5 million years ago.

Thank you, Wikipedia.

Fossilized ammonites are commonly found all over the world and are used to date other fossils. The fossils can be very small to two+ feet across and are often used in jewelry (the small ones, that is).

Ammonite fossils with gold filled wire at www.etsy.com/shop/alanadouvros?ref=seller_info

Pyritized ammonite fossils with diamonds and 14kt gold by

www.etsy.com/shop/SimplyUniqueJD?ref=seller_info

Two species of ammonite, placentaris meeki and buculites compresus, fossilized differently into opalescent gemstones called ammolites. Like pearls and amber, these fossils are organic gems. Red and green are the most common ammolite colors with blue and purple being the rarest.

Ammolite, diamond, and 14 kt gold at www.etsy.com/shop/enikodesign?page=1 (And these will be mine for Christmas!)

Those diamonds are old, old, old carbon that changed under great heat and pressure for millions of years and the flashing bright colors that will swing next to my cheekbones are an old, old, old tentacled creature that died, sunk into the ooze, and was chemically altered over eons...made beautiful by pressure, time, and mysterious alchemy that "happened." Not unlike us...

A Little Oomph!

2011-11-17T05:00:00.010-05:00

I woke up this morning irritated with pendants. They seem...pedestrian. Too little too late. So today let's show some love to some necklaces that deserve a look and a look again.

Irit Design on www.netaporter.com, the silver hand reaches for your belly button. Could be more cheeky depending on how it swings!

Ayaka Nishi: coral, pearl, silver, and brass- you couldn't be in a bad mood with all of this necklace's movement.

Can be found on http://www.1064-guild.com/ Silver, pearls, and leather.

All are long and swingy, drape luxuriously over the body, and are NOT boring. Right now pendants seem so DULL.

BV, This Is BS

2011-11-16T05:00:00.000-05:00

Bogetta Veneta's website calls these earrings "Champagne Zircon Silver Miniature Earrings." The more detailed description admits that the earrings are made of silver, a photo, and CUBIC ZIRCONIA (CZ). This is crap.

Most people don't know that zircon and CZ are totally different- zircon being a pricey natural gemstone and CZ being a man made diamond simulant that costs less than $5 a carat.

Jewelers and artists struggle with consumer distrust and ignorance every day. In this instance, BV compounds the problem by presenting its wares improperly because it is so well known and trusted.  Tricks like this rightly put smaller jewelers out of business. BV's small-print disclosure that the stones are CZ keeps it from fraudulent claims, but BV failed to meet its obligation as a jeweler to present its jewelry honestly.  The claim that perhaps the copy editor did not know there was a difference between zircon and CZ is not excusable.  BV's responsibility to its customers extends to hiring people who understand the trade well enough to truthfully represent their jewels.

Jewelry Still Life

2011-11-15T05:00:00.001-05:00

I love these little jewelry still lifes. They feel like landscapes and illustrations of trophies. Voyeuristic portraits of the people who own the jewelry, they illuminate what an individual thinks is beautiful and what makes them beautiful.

By Odette

I'm trying my hand at these, so expect more of them of varying levels of success.

A Cautionary Tale

2011-11-14T05:00:00.005-05:00

Mr. Rappaport famously said that guys buy diamond engagement rings to prove that they will suffer for their sweethearts.

Gold Tiffany bezel set engagement rings

In these economically tight days, would a bike accident do?

"I can't believe you did that." As if he had a choice! Gentlemen, this is a warning. (Thank you, Mythbusters.)

Inquiring Minds Want to Know

2011-11-11T05:00:00.000-05:00

How did anyone know to put the japor snippit necklace into Padme's hands at her funeral? Remember, she and Anakin were secretly married. It's a sweet gesture, but does it work plot-wise?

A love letter

2011-11-10T05:00:00.001-05:00

Dear Ms. Druckenmiller,

An ad said that your gallery had Verdura cuffs so it was the first place I visited in Manhattan.  I went to the store after 6 pm, on Valentine's Day, after a day in the gem lab.  I was tired, away from my sweetheart, and felt too scruffy for your gallery.

A gentleman took my bags and a blond lady let me try on and pet all of the Verdura items (except the chess men- I never asked) even though I blurted, "I can't buy anything today, but I want to try on a Verdura cuff to see if I should save for it."  None of the cuffs fit properly (sorrow and relief) but the rings were wonderful. There was a tourmaline elephant ring (not Verdura) that I debated about buying- did it look as good as I thought?   I had a wonderful time, not only because of the beautiful, historic collection, but because of the nice lady who played with the jewels with me.

Today I realized that the store was FD...THE FD, purveyors of amazing jewelry on 1st Dibs. And I saw a photo of you too.  I think you might have been the person who was so kind to me- if not, your sales lady resembles you.  Thank you, thank you very much for being truly classy.

Oxinsocks

Is it waiting for me still?

For the Holidays

2011-11-09T05:00:00.000-05:00

What an idea, straight out of science fiction! The Novero Blue Tooth necklace made of silver and lapis lazuli!

The handcrafted necklace hides a Blue Tooth device. Simply decouple the ear bud and talk away- you can look stylishly crazy as you talk animatedly to people who are not present.

For those more interested in the tech side than the jewelry aspect, it works with Bluetooth-enabled devices, filters background noise and has echo cancelling using DPS technology, enters pairing mode when switched on, has a talk time of up to four hours (so lots of people can think you are a well accessorized crazy person), has a stand by time of more than 100 hours, charges via micro-USB interface, and has Bluetooth core 2.1.

There is another version if you want to be less dressy.

This one is silicone and acrylic so it is substantially more budget conscious, but much more casual. It is arguably more stylish. Both are available at Saks Fifth Avenue.

Miss Bianca and the Babe

2011-11-08T05:00:00.000-05:00

I actually squealed when I saw this little mousie for sale on 1stdibs.

Doesn't she look like Miss Bianca, the white mouse who was a member of the Prisoner's Aide Society and the special pet of a diplomat's son? But it is not her resemblance to the heroic Miss Bianca or her lovely opal face that made me sit up and notice...it is Miss Mouse's provenance.

This beautiful piece was made by Verdura in 1950 and was owned by Ms. Babe Paley, she of whom Truman Capote said, "The only thing wrong with Ms. P is that she's perfect, and other than that, she's perfect." She worked for and was featured by Vogue and was given the title "World's Best Dressed" 14 times.

Probably the most famous photo of Babe by Horst in Vogue, March 1948, in which she wore a 21.25 carat Verdura canary diamond ring. Her bracelets were described as "a scramble of pearls."

Babe's beauty and style transformed what she wore into personal statements, and she collected Verdura and other fine jewels the way the rest of us collect mismatched socks. Verdura made many items for her- a pearl and diamond swan wearing bracelets brooch, a diamond kitten playing with a pearl brooch, ear clips, rings, and pearl torsades in contrasting colors as well as others- and called her his muse.

Bracelet and necklace by Verdura

In fairness, a number of her items were purchased by her husband as trophies to display on Babe. He was no gem himself, and he had a "thing" about her being perfectly dressed in the richest of taste to underscore his wealth and status.

Babe and William Paley with the Duchess of Windsor; it took a world class collector to dazzle around the Duchess!

When Ms. Paley was diagnosed with lung cancer in 1974, she smoked two packs of cigarettes a day, she set her affairs in order. As part of that, she organized her $5+ million jewelry collection so there would be no question as to who inherited what and wrapped them in colored paper as if they were gifts. The Verdura mouse was probably one of those. It is an amazing jewel designed by a one of a kind and owned by a one of a kind.

Babe Paley, 1915-1978, in Vogue, 1946

Day of the Dead- a little late

2011-11-03T05:00:00.001-04:00

Sorry that this post is late, but I have to acknowledge The Day of the Dead, also known as All Souls Day. Jewelry and the dead go waaaay back- in just about any way that you can imagine. To truly celebrate the dead you need some gorgeous momento mori jewels, because momento mori jewels actually celebrate life.

Codognato skull necklace made of gold, diamonds, and chalcedony skulls (but one of them looks like amethyst and another like citrine)....death, life, skulls, leaves...gorgeous. www.1stdibs.com

[Can anyone remind me who recently made a necklace that is reminiscent of this one- it was part of someone's Spring 2012 collection (I think) and had multiple strands of neon colored, primitive skulls? I thought it was Dannijo, but now I can't find it anywhere. If anyone knows the one for which I am looking, zap me a note.]

This bracelet is perfect for The Day of the Dead, All Souls Day, or any time that you need reminding to party like a rock star today because this life is all too short. Also on www.1stdibs.com.

Silver, turquoise, and Bakelite cuff- amazing. Pay no attention to the photographer reflected in the skull's forehead.

Update on the Liz Taylor Exhibit/Auction, 13 December 2011

2011-11-03T00:39:00.000-04:00

YAY!!!! I bought my ticket to see the Christie's exhibit of Dame Elizabeth's jewels! I'll go see them on 10 December! I cannot wait! I can't take photos to share with you, but I'll tell you all about it. I am so excited! Tickets went on sale on the 1st, and you have to reserve them by time. I have no idea how quickly they will sell out, so if you plan on going to the exhibition, which runs from 2-12 December, you'd better purchase now! Tickets can only be purchased on line.

http://www.christies.com/elizabethtaylor/exhibitions_schedule.aspx

Taj Mahal Diamond, owned by the king who built the Taj Mahal, purchased for Taylor by Burton.

Some Day...

2011-10-28T05:00:00.000-04:00

I've been longing for a Georgian amethyst necklace. I'll long for a long, long time. Be that as it may, here is a lovely Victorian one that is close enough (but for those pearls) for me to sigh happily when I see it.

From 1stdibbs.com.

But this is my dream. Foiled, enclosed, full set of Siberian amethysts. Sold by Three Graces. To whoever bought it: God bless you and may you wear it happily for years and years and years. Hopefully I will find another similar set. Some day.

Color In the Desert

2011-10-26T05:00:00.001-04:00

Helen Serras-Herman is a sculptor, gemologist, and 2003 Lapidary Hall of Fame inductee. She makes big, bold, unique jewelry that uses precious and semi-precious stones of the finest quality and colors. All have a tactile heft that makes your skin feel loved. She'll have a homage to Arizona in Tucson this upcoming show, using stones native to the state, so you can imagine what will be there. So if you are at the Tucson Gem Show in 2012, stop by and admire her lovely items.

"Ocean Fire" 14 kt gold with 129 carat ocean jasper, two fire opals, and 14 grossular garnets. The necklace is carnelian and ocean jasper.

"Venus" 18 kt gold with 256 carat rutilated quartz

Ms. Serras-Herman knows from where her stones come, traveling and gathering what she can herself, so most come with stories too!

Her website is www.gemartcenter.com.

Mad About The Mouse

2011-10-24T05:00:00.002-04:00

No denying it- Disney World is amazing- it is beautiful, fun, clean, clever, and offers a bewildering plenty of options for every age and interest. I cry every time I leave. My only two complaints are that you cannot get a decent cup of coffee anywhere in the park except in The Polynesian Hotel and that Disney lacks fine jewelry reflecting the ingenuity and cleverness found in every other Disney tchotchke for sale in the park. (I speak only of Disney World and DisneyLand- Hong Kong Disney HAD really cool Disney-themed jewelry, plus fun high jewelry that was not character specific but felt like it belonged there.)

A few years ago, Disney heard the complaints of its big girl fans. Enter Disney Couture, a label that hires top designers to design limited release jewelry referencing Disney films and themes.

Perhaps you have seen Mawi's Mickey ring making its rounds through the blogosphere this fall?

I like her Minnie necklace for holiday dress up.

Or Tom Binn's Cheshire Cat earrings? Many of his Alice items are delightfully disturbing- just like Alice.

But high end costume remains high end costume. Fortunately, the Mouse never leaves a market untapped. Chopard came to the rescue with its Happy Mickey collection, released on 9 October. These lovelies are only sold in Chopard stores, so you'll have to get your new watch or necklace before you hit the park- call ahead because what will you wear if they are out?

Loving those hidden Mickeys in the background...

I'm thinking that while I'm in NYC seeing Dame Elizabeth Taylor's jewels, I could pop over and pick up a few. Only in my dreams...but that's what Disney World is all about! "A dream is a wish your heart makes..."

Educational Update

2011-10-18T11:57:00.000-04:00

Just passed my final in Diamonds and Diamond Grading! Hooray! It feels great to be done with that class! Gem ID, here I come!

Champagne Bubbles earrings by Diamonds In The Rough...6.90 carats rough diamonds with 0.30 carats micro pave diamonds in 18 karat gold

Changing My Mind

2011-10-15T05:00:00.000-04:00

Going with the flow, changing my mind, waffling- I prefer the phrase, "Reevaluating my options." Aesthetics don't require loyalty; what looks good, looks good. You like what you like, and that's all that needs to be considered in the world of art, jewelry, and fashion.

Malodora is making me reevaluate my strong position about jewelry from precious items. Malodora's jewels, made of polymer clay, have a lot of thought and careful construction behind each piece. It takes a lot to move jewelry made from this medium into art but these make the transition.

The shop on Etsy is http://www.etsy.com/shop/Malodora?ref=pr_shop. There are many styles of items too (skulls, puppies, abstract beads, alien flower earrings) that are worth a look.

Micromosaic brooch- I love micromosaics, and there are not many modern jewelers making them.

Another, more conventional, micromosaic.

Braaaaaaaaaains and human hair, for when you get your zombie on.

Crab ring- Malodora can has a cute! (I could not help myself.)

Purrrrrr.....

2011-10-14T05:00:00.000-04:00

There isn't a need for words, is there? Cartier Panther watch...www.1stdibs.com.

Maine-d In America

2011-10-12T05:00:00.001-04:00

And why not buy American, when these beauties are from Maine's tourmaline mines?

www.crossjewelers.com

www.crossjewelers.com A cats-eye tourmaline!

www.rdallen.com

www.crossjewelers

If you like watermelon tourmaline, these two stores have a lot of it!

Girandole Earrings

2011-10-10T05:00:00.000-04:00

Girandole earrings are earrings of the past. Once upon a time, from the 1650s to the 1800s, they were the earrings worn at courts across Europe. Earlier girandole earrings were built along a horizontal axis, but over time they grew longer. Their shape is a central bow with three dangling drops hanging from it. Very few sets remain since most of them were torn apart to make other earrings or re-purposed to make pendants; wedded to the past, their components moved into the future, but the earrings did not.

These girandoles are the earrings of the future, upside-down and vertical. And continuing turning the girandole upside down, these earrings are made of recycled materials- recycled 19th century ivory, stainless steel, recycled silver, and recycled ebony. The earrings enable pieces from the past to move, changed, into a not-so-distant future.

www.macreativedesign.com

Facing Your Fears

2011-10-07T07:07:00.000-04:00

Amulets, religious symbols, and lucky charms, whether they are a string of blue and white evil eye beads hung on a newborn, a St. Michael's medal worn in a war zone, or a gold clover never taken off for fear of "bad luck," are attempts to interfere with the supernatural, helping the wearer overcome his or her fears,

I am horribly, horribly afraid of sharks, with a sickness-inducing fear. This photo made me queasy the first time I saw it. (Then I made it my screen saver.)

Real photo, not altered. BTW, both the researcher and the shark were ok afterwards.

So I need this pin.

www.lexiebecjewelry.com

While the artist says her line is about fun, I'd wear this piece in deadly seriousness.

For those who are also intrigued with sharks, The Monterey Aquarium has another Great White Shark in their open sea tank. A smallish male, they caught him in August. The Monterey Aquarium is the only aquarium that has a success rate with keeping these illusive animals alive, but they release them after a time since there is a limit to how long these pelagic sharks can live in captivity. So if you want to watch their live web cam for a glimpse of this amazing, terrifying shark, go to their website soon.
http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/efc/efc_opensea/open_sea_cam.aspx

More Bevel

2011-10-05T05:00:00.001-04:00

Not sure how many of you remember the earlier post about Bevel ("Murder and Revenge," 29 April 2011.) Bevel's myth-inspired jewelry is incredible, unique, and thoughtful and makes a Mayan legend accessible and wearable. Considering the story involves heads hanging on trees, dark demons of the underworld, huge bats, and a house of slashing blades, that's impressive. And the good news is that there are new pieces on www.notjustalabel.com! Thank you, thank you, thank you Jonathan Goldstein, for keeping the Hero Twins above ground.

The Hun Came (One Death) necklace. Hun Came is the ruler of the underworld and death, and the Hero Twins wear his head as a trophy, to celebrate their victory over evil. The artist says this piece is about triumph through adversity. He's also wearing a Camazotz' Ring on his pinkie, which is not new to the collection but is cool (and very pointy.)

She's wearing the new Helper's bracelet, commemorating the ants that helped the Hero Twins with a task. She's also wearing the Resurrection Necklace down her back (shaped like a Hero Twins' rib cage- don't worry- he got better) and Vucub-Came earrings, not new but way-cool that a set of earrings is based on the two heads of the seventh demon of the underworld. No idea about the rings- hoping they hit a site soon!

And if you haven't gone to www.bevelnyc.com for the story and the GORGEOUS video, you are missing out. And thank you Mr. Goldstein for finally putting PRICES on your site!

No thanks to NotJustALabel for making it impossible to get clear, large photos of the jewelry. Sorry.

It's In the Details

2011-10-04T05:00:00.000-04:00

Hiroko Takahashi's work is wonderfully detailed, tiny worlds in miniature. She carves her own pearls, creates every setting, and almost stops breathing when she is creating because, "...the delicate balance of the small world is key." Every gemstone piece is a one-of-a-kind because every setting is designed for a particular stone. The backs are as carefully crafted as the fronts. Gorgeous.

Praying Mantis Jewel

2011-10-03T05:00:00.001-04:00

Check out this praying mantis necklace by Mario Salvucci...

C'mon now, check out the necklace! The legs' shadows make it appear floral, but it really isn't. Part of the Incredible Creature's collection, made of agate and 100% recycled silver, it's available on www.notjustalabel.com.

Etsy Metal Bracelet

2011-09-28T05:00:00.000-04:00

This charm bracelet is completely right. The crow charm totally makes it- but the longer you look at the 19 original charms made by 19 metal artists, the better it gets. It probably even sounds good being worn- an arm party of one.

www.etsy.com/listing/79262175/etsymetal-charm-swap-7-bracelet

Introducing the Letseng Star

2011-09-27T05:00:00.003-04:00

It's a Diamond!
Found: 19 August 2011, displayed 23 September 2011
By: Letseng Diamond Mine, Lesotho
Size: 550 Carats
Color: D- colorless!

Wow! Amazing- and so much potential!

Monday

2011-09-26T05:00:00.002-04:00

To fire up your creativity on a Monday, visit www.pem.org/sites/iris to dress your own Iris Apfel paperdoll! With Iris, more is more! (Seriously- this is waaaay addictive.)

And Alex Monroe's updated site is up; the Chrysanthemum collection is on it...www.alexmonroe.com.

Friday's Treat

2011-09-23T05:00:00.001-04:00

Isn't this beautiful? Do you think the jeweler laughed when he finished and realized what he had made? When you see something this lovely, made by a person, you realize that we reflect (imperfectly) God's image in our desire and ability to create.

Carnelian, onyx, white gold, and diamond from www.Wartski.com

Catalogue Can Be Reserved

2011-09-22T05:00:00.001-04:00

You can reserve your catalogue for the Liz Taylor Jewelry Auction now. Go to www.christie's.com and click on catalogues. Warning- it's pricey! I'm having to talk myself into ordering it, but I will regret it if I don't!

These are just two of the over two hundred items that will be auctioned. The JAR earrings were made specifically for her to match her eyes, which she thought were blue and sometimes green. Burton gave her the necklace (with matching earrings) as a gift when her first grandchild was born.

A Shout Out to Readers

2011-09-21T05:00:00.001-04:00

Have any of you tried on earrings by Ms. Jessica Winzelberg? I LOVE the colors in these, but fear they would be heavy. Anyone out there tried on these or any like them?

Triple stone drop by Jessica Winzelberg, 14 kt gold, cuprite chrysocolla, Larsonite, and geode from www.roseark.com

Pamela Love's Spring 2012 Collection

2011-09-20T05:00:00.000-04:00

Pamela Love's newest collection has the desert and wide open spaces in it. Its colors and inspiration are a change from her previous goth collections, and the results are strong and full of energy. The colors especially are a radical departure from her signature dark designs. Well done, Ms. Love, in keeping your design fresh, fierce, and free spirited!

Why I Am Not Afraid of Being 90

2011-09-19T05:00:00.002-04:00

Because Iris Apfel makes 90 look GOOD! You don't get that level of style and confidence without living in your skin for more than 45 years.

“I learned that I have to go to bed with myself at night and that I have to please myself…and as long as I don’t go out of my way to offend anybody that I love, upset my mother or my husband…I’ll do my own thing. And if the public doesn’t like it, it’s their problem, not mine.” – Iris Apfel

True story- I was in church, envying an old lady who wore a zillion diamond rings, thinking, "When I get to be her age, I'm going to wear all of my jewelry at once too." Then I thought, "What's stopping me?" Duh! Be who you want to be! Life is not a dress rehersal!

Some of Iris' bling.

Love and Devotion

2011-09-16T05:00:00.000-04:00

More "Awwwww" for Friday. This is so sweet that it makes you feel good to see it. That makes it perfect for Friday.

www.georgianjewelry.com

Big enough to fill your palm, it's Edwardian romance in 18 kts with diamonds and garnets. Look at how the beaks and diamond make a heart! May your weekend be spent with someone who holds the key to your heart!